At the time of first review, we assessed this as the best restaurant that we had found in California. It was tucked away in Montgomery Village, in a side lane invisible from road or car park, this oasis of taste and culinary excellence ranking with 357 King and The Peasant's Feast in our mythology.
I had a Thai Martini (jalapeno vodka?), then a small bouillabaise, followed by Chinese-style ribs, and papaya creme brulee, and a double espresso to finish; others had walnut and pear salad with crumbled blue cheese, filet mignon with pepper-cream sauce, lamb baked with rosemary, etc. There is a strong but not exclusive European influence, both in the dishes and in the decor and atmosphere. The service was flawless, not over-attentive, but always there when required. The premises are light, tastefully decorated, with a bar as well as the dining area.
We did not get a chance to try the wines, as we had brought our own hand-imported vintage (thank you Lou). Sadly this restaurant is not open on Sundays, and is often very busy, so booking is advisable. (Our first experience with Hemenways is worth recounting. We called in at 9PM one night wthout booking. We were told that they could accomodate us, but as we had not booked they could not guarantee all meals to be available, and they felt that we would enjoy our dining experience all the more if we tried another night. That sound advice ensured that we would return.)
The conclusion was "Don't miss this 9/10 dining in Santa Rosa, even if it not the Rockpool."
The restaurant moved circa 2000 to the Pacific Market region, a step towards exclusivity and the "old money" part of town. Now, in October 2001, it is somewhat more expensive (it is not hard to spend $125 for two with wine), slightly less effective for service, and perhaps not as immaculate in its culinary execution. The boullabaisse was not creamy or tangy, the fillet was not cooked as requested, and it seemed to us to have lost its edge. The Taubman-Scott rule gives most restaurants an effective life of two years before decay sets in. Lisa Hemenway's is past its peak.